Chemical Texture Services Flashcards

A client's hair turns into a gummy, mushy texture during a perm strand test. This indicates:

Answer: The hair is over-processed and cannot safely receive a perm

A gummy or mushy texture means the hair's protein structure has been broken down too much, making the hair too fragile for a perm service.

What is the key difference between a 'no-base' relaxer application and a 'base' application?

Answer: No-base relaxers are applied to the hair only without pre-coating the scalp with base cream

No-base relaxers are mild enough that a protective base cream is only applied to the hairline and ears, not the entire scalp.

Which rod size produces the tightest curl pattern in a permanent wave?

Answer: Small diameter rod

Smaller diameter rods create tighter, more defined curls because the hair wraps around a smaller circumference.

What is 'thio-free' or 'alternative' perm chemistry based on?

Answer: Cysteamine or other non-thioglycolate reducing agents

Thio-free perms use alternative reducing agents such as cysteamine or mercaptamine that break disulfide bonds without ammonium thioglycolate.

How long should the neutralizer typically remain on the hair during a permanent wave service?

Answer: 5 to 10 minutes

Most neutralizers require 5 to 10 minutes to fully oxidize and rebuild the disulfide bonds in the new curl pattern.

A client with fine, thin hair wants a perm. Which technique would add volume without over-curling?

Answer: Body wave using large rods

A body wave with large rods creates a loose, soft wave that lifts fine hair and adds volume without an overly tight curl.

What is the function of a 'pre-wrap lotion' applied before rolling perm rods?

Answer: It conditions the hair and controls porosity for more even processing

Pre-wrap lotions equalize the porosity of the hair so that waving lotion absorbs evenly from roots to ends, preventing uneven curl results.